The Science of Dry Skin in Skin of Color

The Science of Dry Skin in Skin of Color: Why Ashiness Isn’t Just Cosmetic

Dry skin — often brushed off as a minor cosmetic issue — is anything but trivial, especially for people of color. What many refer to as “ashiness” is actually a visible sign of deeper biological imbalances in the skin barrier. For melanin-rich skin, this condition can be persistent, frustrating, and sometimes misunderstood by mainstream skincare advice. But the good news is: there’s science behind why it happens — and solutions that work when the right knowledge is applied.

Let’s break down what’s really going on under the surface and how you can reclaim your glow with confidence and care.

What Is Dry Skin, Really?

Dry skin, or xerosis, is not just about a lack of moisture — it’s about a damaged or weakened skin barrier. Your skin barrier, made up of corneocytes and lipids (think of them as bricks and mortar), plays a critical role in keeping water in and irritants out.

When this barrier becomes compromised, you experience:

• Increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL)

• Tightness, flaking, dullness, and rough texture

• Itching, inflammation, or even breakouts

• Increased sensitivity to weather, products, or fabrics

For people with melanin-rich skin, these symptoms often appear as gray or white flaking (commonly called ashiness), especially on the arms, legs, or face.

Why Dryness Shows Up Differently in Skin of Color

Melanin-rich skin isn’t just about pigment — it also behaves differently at a structural and biochemical level. Several studies and dermatological reviews, including research in Treatment of Dry Skin Syndrome by Lodén & Maibach, highlight that:

1. Lower Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF): Skin of color often produces fewer NMF components (like amino acids and urea), which are crucial for drawing and holding moisture in the outer skin layers.

2. Fewer Ceramides: Ceramides are lipids that help form the “mortar” of your skin barrier. A deficiency in ceramides leads to barrier breakdown — especially under environmental stress (cold, wind, over-cleansing).

3. More Visible Flaking: In darker skin, when the outer skin cells become dehydrated and lift, it becomes much more visible against melanin-rich tones. Hence, ashiness becomes a loud — and public — signal of dryness.

4. Barrier Differences by Region: Facial skin, especially around the eyes and cheeks, is thinner and more prone to damage in darker skin tones. The skin on the body (elbows, knees) may also differ in thickness and lipid content, requiring more targeted care.

It’s Not Just About Moisturizer — It’s About Barrier Repair

Most people respond to dry skin with one action: putting on lotion. But not all moisturizers are created equal — and not all dryness is solved by surface hydration. What your skin actually needs is moisturization that heals, not just softens.

The three essential types of moisturizers are:

1. Humectants (e.g., glycerin, hyaluronic acid) – draw water into the skin

2. Emollients (e.g., squalane, plant oils) – smooth and soften rough texture

3. Occlusives (e.g., petrolatum, lanolin) – seal in moisture and prevent TEWL

For skin of color, the most effective moisturizers often combine all three  along with ingredients like ceramides, tamanu oil, and baobab oil that help rebuild a damaged barrier over time.

Pro tip: Don’t skip moisturizers that seem “too rich.” Richer textures often perform better in sealing and healing — particularly in colder months or after exfoliation.

Ingredients That Work — And Ones to Avoid

When selecting products for dry, melanin-rich skin, science-backed ingredients matter more than hype. Look for:

• Ceramides – essential to restore skin’s natural lipid matrix
• Shea butter – strong occlusives to lock in moisture
• Urea – helps smooth rough patches
• Glycerin – humectant that hydrates and supports healthy skin shedding
• Aloe vera – soothes inflammation and supports hydration

Avoid:

• Harsh foaming cleansers
• Alcohol-heavy toners or astringents
• Overuse of physical exfoliants (scrubs, brushes)
• Fragrance-heavy products if your skin is sensitive

Skin of Color Needs More Than “Basic” Care

Here’s the truth: melanin-rich skin deserves targeted care backed by science not generic advice. What works for other skin tones may not work for you. From how your skin retains moisture to how it reacts to inflammation or trauma (like over-scrubbing or harsh peels), your skincare routine should be designed with your biology in mind.

Barrier repair is at the heart of long-term skin health especially when dealing with dryness, hyperpigmentation, eczema, or acne. And the good news? With consistent, barrier-supporting routines, your skin can bounce back.

Hydrate, But Make It Science

Dry skin in skin of color is more than surface-level. It’s a call for deeper attention to your skin barrier, your product choices, and your understanding of what your skin truly needs to thrive. Healing begins when you stop chasing the next trend and start treating your skin like the brilliant, biologically complex organ it is.

Your skin health isn’t about perfection — it’s about consistency, knowledge, and care.